F.A.Q.

Do cannas have to be lifted, or dug, each fall?: Cannas are an herbaceous perennial and will freeze to the depth the ground freezes. In zones 7-10, cannas will over winter in the ground without the need to dig and store the bulbs.; Zones 6 and 7 are marginal for cannas. They will survive during 'normal' winter conditions, but have a greater chance of freezing during a severe winter. It is important to mulch your cannas to help protect and insulate them. Cutting down the foliage after frost and covering with 6 - 8 inches of hay, straw, grass clippings, leaves or other mulch will provide effective protection from old man winter. Another factor regarding possibility of freeze is the placement of cannas in your yard. Cannas planted on the south side of a home or fence will almost always over winter. Cannas planted on the north side of a building or in the middle of a yard do not receive as much protection and will most likely freeze and die during the winter.; In Zones 6 and colder there are a couple of choices:

How and when do I dig cannas for winter storage?: Cannas do not have to be dug, or lifted, in some areas. For zones 6 and colder, follow these easy steps to storing your cannas:; Note: There are many ways to store canna bulbs. If you have a successful method other than what we recommend, don't change!

How do I get the most out of cannas where I live, in zone 3?: Container grown cannas are a great way to enjoy long lasting summer color, even in the shorter summer months of the northern United States. Here in Oklahoma, it takes about three months from the time the bulbs are planted until the cannas are in full bloom. We plant our fields April 1st and are consistently in full bloom by July 4th. You can start cannas indoors in a container approximately eight weeks before you plant them outside.

Do canna bulbs, or rhizomes, require division each year?: For zones 7-10 where cannas can be left in the ground over winter, the answer to this question is no. It is best to divide your cannas every two to three years. This can be done in spring after the threat of a hard, soil penetrating freeze. Either lift the entire clump of bulbs and divide, or simply thin out your cannas with a spade.; For zones 6 and colder where cannas are lifted each fall, of course, go ahead and divide the bulbs.

How are canna bulbs divided?: We sell 3 to 5 eye bulbs. An eye is a nodule or growth point at various places on the bulb. New growth will develop from each of the eyes. After digging the clump of bulbs, shake off excess soil without damaging the bulbs. Simply break the clump into a few pieces and see what you have. You will find that the bulbs tend to have a natural breaking point. For best results, try to break the bulbs down to no less than three eyes. You may have a few small pieces left over. Don't throw them out--plant them, too!

Do cannas require dead heading?: Dead heading is the cutting of old or spent blooms from a flowering plant. It is our experience that dead heading is not required to improve blooming performance. However, cutting away the spent blooms will certainly improve the appearance of cannas. When dead heading, always cut just below the spent bloom head. Cutting too low can result in destroying future blooms within the stalk.

How do I control insects in my cannas?: Sevin, dust or spray, and Malathion will control most insects and worms in cannas. Orthene is also a good product to use, as it kills on contact and is a systemic. Also, a 3-in-1 rose food contains a systemic insecticide that will fertilize and help to control insects and worms in cannas. You can find these chemicals in most garden centers.

How do I control leafrollers?: The canna leafroller caterpillars are rarely seen but have damaging effects on the foliage of cannas. Leafrollers make their home in new unrolled leaves or they roll up inside of an open leaf. Infested leaves appear shredded from the cocoon like web made by the leafroller. Some leaves are so damaged, they cannot open and may die. The infested plants are unable to bloom and appear quite ugly.; We have found best results with Orthene. This chemical works on contact and as a systemic. There are many chemicals available. Isotox is another chemical that was recommended to us Mr. Ott Roush from Memphis, Tennessee. Always read the label carefully and use a chemical with which you are comfortable.; It is important to discard the dead foliage during the winter. The larvae of canna leafrollers overwinter in the dead leaves. By removing the foliage, you will remove the majority of the insects.; We want to note that canna leafrollers are rarely a problem at our farm. In fact, insects in general are not a problem in our 120 acre field. We treat our flowerbeds with Orthonex. We use it as a general insecticide to take care of any pests.

What soil conditions do cannas require?: Cannas grow well in a wide range of soil conditions. As long as the soil is loose, fertile, well drained and free of grass and weeds, cannas will grow and bloom. (Water and sun requirements must be met as well!) Bad soil conditions, such as heavy clay or loose sand can be amended with organic matter to improve growth and blooms.; The pH factor of the soil is important to consider. We recommend a neutral pH. Cannas will not tolerate alkaline soil.

What is the latest information regarding the canna virus?: Within the last few years the horticulture community has experienced an epidemic explosion worldwide with newly found diseases in a multitude of their crops. Cannas have been no exception. Up until recently, science has been unable to reliably identify the cause of some of these diseases. In many of our minor horticulture plants, such as cannas, that reliable identification still remains difficult at best.; At the present, there seems to be at least three, and likely four, identified viruses affecting cannas. There is still some debate over this issue and it is always possible to have others identified in the future. As some consumers likely know, virus plant infections and the symptoms produced can be both serious and at times nonexistent. This complicates the eradication of the virused plants. There is no cure for virus plants that will guarantee future virus free production at this time. Claims of “totally virus free plants” must be taken carefully, knowing the nature of viruses. Symptoms appear more often in container grown cannas, especially those grown in the northern U.S. Many other plant diseases, as well as the growing environment, can produce plant symptoms that mimic virus infections. Not all growing symptoms are virus related. In most cases, plant symptoms are a result of several related conditions including possible virus infection. Horn Canna Farm is attempting to recognize and deal with this complicated issue. We do not expect this to be a short term endeavor. Results may likely be slow in coming. We are assessing all avenues available including evaluation and introduction of new cultivars, evaluation of our present planting stock, potential replacement planting stock that hopefully will prove to have reduced or no viral load and even our own local growing environment (soil-water supply).; It is important for our customers to recognize that Horn Canna Farm has and will continue to guarantee a sound and viable rhizome but we cannot guarantee your growing results. There are simply too many factors outside our control and the grower’s control for us to meet that expectation. We do thank you, our valued customers, for your continued support and we intend to continue to work to produce a viable and useful product for your approval.